Rediscovering Varanasi's Timeless Hand-block Printing Craft

Varanasi's Rich Cultural Heritage: Its Ghats, Crafts and Traditional Foods

Varanasi boasts eighty-seven ghats, each with its own history and significance. These ghats are central to various festivals such as Holi, Ganga Dussehra, Mahashivaratri, and Dev Deepawali. The cultural life of Varanasi is enriched by traditional businesses like Paan Shops, Cycle Rickshaws, food stalls, and Banaras Sweet Shops, offering delights such as Banarasi Kachori, Aloo Subzi, and Jalebis. Varanasi’s vibrant culture is deeply intertwined with its festivals, traditional foods, and crafts. The city is renowned for its handblock printing, an ancient craft with roots tracing back to the Indus Valley civilization.

The Art and History of Hand Block Printing in Varanasi

Ancient Block Printing: From China to Varanasi

Block printing, a method of textile printing, is believed to have originated in China during the early 3rd century. This ancient technique involves carving intricate patterns into wooden blocks, applying dye to the blocks, and then pressing them onto fabric to create beautiful, repeating designs. The art of block printing gradually spread from China to other parts of the world, including Egypt and various regions of Asia, before eventually making its way to Europe.

In addition to its Chinese origins, there is evidence that block printing was practiced in the Indus Valley civilization, one of the world's oldest urban cultures. Artifacts from the ancient city of Harappa reveal that the people of this civilization were familiar with the use of mordants (substances used to fix dyes on fabrics) and dyeing techniques. This indicates a sophisticated understanding of textile production and design.

Image: Credits to eSamskriti

The spread of block printing across different cultures and continents underscores its universal appeal and adaptability. Each region that adopted the technique added its own unique elements, leading to a rich diversity of styles and motifs. Today, block printing continues to be a cherished craft, celebrated for its ability to combine tradition with artistry, resulting in textiles that are both visually stunning and culturally significant.

What are the different types of blocks used in hand-block printing?

There are two main types of blocks used in printing:

• Wooden Block: Made from seasoned teak wood and consists of three parts—Gadh (background), Rekh (outline), and Datta (inner filling).

• Metallic Block: Made from thin metal sheets hammered into shape and fitted onto a wooden block.

Intricate Motifs and Vibrant Dyes

Block designs in Varanasi frequently incorporate intricate geometrical and floral motifs, reflecting the rich artistic influence of Mughal design traditions. These motifs, characterized by their detailed patterns and symmetrical forms, showcase the cultural fusion and historical significance embedded in the craft. The process of creating these designs is meticulous, involving skilled artisans who carve each motif onto wooden blocks with precision and care.

The dyes used in Varanasi hand block printing are equally distinctive and varied. Pigment dyes, which consist of pigments mixed with kerosene and a binder, are commonly employed for their vibrant hues and strong adherence to fabric. These dyes are particularly effective for achieving bold and long-lasting prints. Additionally, rapid fast colors are utilized for printing on white and light-colored fabrics. These colors are known for their quick-drying properties and their ability to produce crisp, clear prints. Together, the use of these dyes and the intricate block designs contribute to the unique and enduring beauty of Varanasi hand-block printed textiles.

Key Centers for Hand Block Printing in Varanasi

Key centers for block-making in Varanasi include Kashmiriganj, Khojwan, and Manduadih. The Indian textile industry, particularly in Varanasi, has a significant economic impact, known for its dyeing and printing crafts.

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The Saree: A Timeless Garment

Historical Evolution

The saree, one of the oldest unstitched garments still in use today, has a rich and storied history. Originating from ancient garments like the Antariya and Uttariya, the saree has evolved significantly over the centuries. The Antariya was a lower garment while the Uttariya was a shawl or upper garment, both of which were prevalent during the Vedic period. Over time, these garments combined to form what we recognize today as the saree. This evolution was also influenced by the Roman palla, a draped outer garment. Through the ages, the saree has retained its essence while adapting to contemporary styles and cultural shifts.

Breaking Down the Traditional Saree

A traditional saree is typically a long piece of cloth, measuring between 5.5 to 6.5 meters in length and about 40 to 50 inches in width. It is designed to be wrapped around the body in various styles, depending on regional and cultural preferences.

1. Body: The main part of the saree that drapes around the lower body and forms the pleats.

2. Border: Often a contrasting or decorative strip that runs along the edges of the saree, adding structure and embellishment.

3. Pallu: The loose end of the saree that drapes over the shoulder. The pallu is usually the most embellished part of the saree, featuring intricate designs, embroidery, or prints.

Brand Study: Top Saree Brands Preserving Traditional Hand Block Printing

Existing Brands in the Market

Research into existing saree brands reveals a diverse landscape of fabrics, designs, and price ranges. These brands are committed to preserving traditional crafts like block printing while also innovating to meet modern tastes.

• Suta: Known for its minimalist designs and use of breathable fabrics, Suta offers a range of sarees that appeal to the modern woman who values comfort without compromising on style.

• Taneira: A TATA product, Taneira focuses on handwoven sarees from across India. It aims to celebrate the rich heritage of Indian textiles and offers a wide variety of sarees, including those with intricate block prints.

• Jaypore: Specializing in artisanal products, Jaypore offers sarees that feature traditional crafts like block printing, embroidery, and weaving. Their collection includes unique designs that cater to both contemporary and traditional tastes.

• Fabriclore: This brand is known for its extensive range of fabrics and sarees, promoting traditional crafts by collaborating with artisans. Fabriclore's collection includes block-printed sarees, handloom sarees, and more.

• Okhai: Okhai promotes the work of rural artisans by offering handcrafted sarees that feature traditional Indian crafts. Their sarees often incorporate mirror work, embroidery, and block prints.

• The Indian Ethnic Company: This brand is dedicated to preserving the essence of Indian culture through its saree collection. They offer a range of sarees with hand-block prints, intricate embroidery, and traditional motifs.

These brands exemplify the blend of tradition and modernity, offering sarees that not only preserve ancient crafts but also cater to the aesthetic and practical needs of today's consumers.

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Insights from Market Survey

A survey of women aged 18-43, primarily married and educated, indicates a preference for cotton Kota Doria sarees in soothing colors. Quality and comfort are the top criteria for purchasing handcrafted sarees. The survey is summarized below:

Target Audience

Age Group: 18-43 years
Gender: Female
Occupation: Includes students, teachers, professors, social workers, self-employed and Science professionals

Marital Status:

• Married: 62%

• Unmarried: 38%

Awareness about Hand Block Printing                              Fabric Preferences

Color Preferences                        Purchasing Criteria for Handcrafted Sarees                              

Willingness to Pay

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The Brand Story

Ankan: Reviving Varanasi's Hand Block Printing Heritage

Ankan is a brand that aims to revive the art of hand-block printing in Varanasi, emphasizing its cultural importance and intricate beauty. By promoting this traditional craft, Ankan seeks to not only preserve but also ensure the future stability and growth of hand-block printing. This initiative is driven by a commitment to celebrate and spotlight the rich heritage of Varanasi's artisanal traditions, integrating them into contemporary fashion and lifestyle. (Credits: Indian Textiles & Crafts Repository)

Beyond preservation, Ankan strives to create a sustainable ecosystem that supports artisans, designers, and the market associated with hand-block printing. The brand emphasizes fair wages, good working conditions, and opportunities for skill development and innovation, thereby empowering the entire community involved in this craft. By fostering appreciation and recognition for hand-block printing, Ankan aims to inspire renewed interest in this age-old art form while enhancing the livelihoods of those dedicated to its preservation and practice.

Image: Credits to werindia

The Essence of Ankan: Making a Lasting Impression

The name "Ankan" is derived from Hindi, meaning "to make an impression." Just as hand-block printing creates beautiful patterns on fabric, Ankan aims to leave a lasting impression on people's hearts. This brand embodies the intricate artistry of hand-block printing, showcasing its elegance and significance.

Vision & Mission

• Vision: To promote the heritage of hand-block printing in Varanasi by empowering craftsmanship and creating a unique identity for this timeless art.

• Mission: To provide a platform that supports artisans and revives the fading art of hand-block printing, making it accessible to a broader audience.

Ankan’s Goals: Revival, Authenticity, and Accessibility

• Revival & Development: To rejuvenate and sustain the craft of hand-block printing.

• Authentic Products: To offer genuine, high-quality handcrafted sarees.

• Exclusive Collection: To present a unique and exquisite range of sarees.

• Customer Accessibility: To ensure easy access for customers to these handcrafted products.

The Logo Development

The logo for Ankan was crafted with great thought, symbolizing the essence of hand-block printing. It incorporates three key elements of the block: Gad, Rekh, and Datta. The hand-painted logo reflects the brand's commitment to authenticity and the traditional craftsmanship of Varanasi's hand-block printing.

What is the Inspiration and Design behind Ankan?

• Inspired by Temples: Kashi Raj Kali Temple

The Kashi Raj Kali Temple in Varanasi, an architectural marvel built in the Nagara style, serves as the primary inspiration for Ankan’s collection. The temple is renowned for its intricate stone carvings and elaborate architectural details, which are beautifully mirrored in the motifs used in Ankan’s saree designs. These elements reflect not only the artistic heritage of Varanasi but also the spiritual essence that the temple embodies. The collection aims to capture the temple’s grandeur and sanctity, translating them into wearable art.

• Mood Boards and Color Palette

To guide the design process, mood boards are created with inspiration drawn from the rituals and worship paraphernalia of the temple. These mood boards encapsulate the vibrant and serene aspects of temple life, serving as a visual reference throughout the creative process. The color palette chosen for the collection is a harmonious blend of hues that evoke the temple’s ambiance. Rich, warm tones inspired by the temple’s stonework, combined with soothing shades reminiscent of the tranquil temple atmosphere, form the core of the palette. This thoughtful selection ensures that each saree resonates with the spirit of the temple.

• Material Selection: Practicality Meets Aesthetics

The choice of materials for the saree collection is both practical and aesthetic. Cotton Kota Doria fabric is selected for its lightweight, breathable quality, making it ideal for summer wear. Its rich texture adds an element of sophistication to the sarees, aligning with the luxurious feel of the temple inspiration. For the blouse pieces, Rubia fabric—a polyester-cotton blend—is chosen. This fabric offers durability and comfort, ensuring that the blouse pieces complement the sarees perfectly while maintaining ease of wear.

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• Initial Sketches and Pattern Development: From Concept to Creation

The design process begins with hand-drawn sketches of temple-inspired motifs. These sketches are carefully crafted to capture the essence of the temple’s artistry. Once the initial sketches are finalized, they are digitized and developed into intricate patterns for the saree collection. This step ensures that the motifs are accurately reproduced and can be seamlessly integrated into the fabric. The patterns undergo several iterations to achieve the desired balance of tradition and contemporary appeal, resulting in a collection that honors the temple’s legacy while appealing to modern sensibilities.

Ankan’s mission is to offer authentic, handcrafted sarees that celebrate the rich tradition of hand-block printing in Varanasi, ensuring the craft’s continuity and the artisans’ prosperity.

Incorporating the historical and cultural richness of the Kashi Raj Kali Temple, Ankan’s saree collection stands as a testament to the enduring beauty of traditional Indian craftsmanship. Each saree tells a story of heritage, spirituality, and artistic excellence, making them not just garments, but timeless pieces of art.

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The Art and Craft of Varanasi Hand Block Printing: A Deep Dive into Ankan's Block-Making Process

Varanasi, known for its rich cultural heritage and intricate craftsmanship, has a long-standing tradition of hand-block printing. Ankan, a brand committed to reviving this declining craft, has taken a significant step towards preserving this art form. This initiative aims to ensure the future stability of this traditional art form, promoting it on a larger scale and preserving its heritage. Through this endeavor, Ankan strives to support and uplift the artisans, designers, and the market associated with this craft. 

Here, we delve into the meticulous block-making process, from selecting the right materials to developing the final product, highlighting the expertise of master artisans.

The Tradition of Block Making in Varanasi

Varanasi has been a hub for block-making for centuries. This craft requires immense skill and patience, and it's carried out in designated areas where artisans reside and work. One such master artisan is Shri Ram Prakash, a resident of Khojwan, who has dedicated over 50 years to this craft. Collaborating with these artisans, Ankan ensures that each block is crafted to perfection, maintaining the authenticity and tradition of Varanasi hand-block printing.

What is the Block-Making Process?

Materials Used

The primary material for block making is wood, specifically Shisham wood, which is locally available in Varanasi. Shisham wood is known for its durability and smooth texture, making it ideal for creating intricate designs.

What are the steps involved in block-making?

1. Wood Preparation:

• The wooden logs are cut in the sawmill to the required size.

• These pieces are boiled in salt water to ensure they are germ-free and long-lasting.

• After boiling, the wood is filled to achieve an even surface.

2. Coating and Marking:

• The smooth wood is coated with Kharia (chalk), a mix of quicklime and PVC glue.

• Essential markings are made on the white-coated surface using a scale and compass, followed by transferring the design onto it.

3. Design Transfer:

• Impressions of the designs are made on the block using a stencil and chisel. Alternatively, small holes are made on tracing paper according to the design, placed on the block, and rubbed with Kalikh (coal dust) to transfer the design.

• The outline of the design is marked with a chisel. Tools like Chausa, Gol Kutiya, Tasa, and Tili are used for the core work of making the block.

• The positive space is retained while the extras are removed through chiseling, with carvings approximately 1.5 cm-2 cm deep.

4. Finishing:

• Once the design is complete, holes are made in the block to allow air passage.

• The finished blocks are soaked in oil for a while.

• Intricately carved wooden blocks with fine detailing are now ready for use.

The Dyeing Process: Preparing Fabrics for Printing

Before block printing, the fabric undergoes multiple dyeing processes. Direct dye is used to provide a color base, known for its high substantivity towards fibers.

Some Properties of Direct Dyes that You should Know!

• Anionic in nature

• Good lightfastness

• Poor wash fastness (can be improved by after-treatment)

• Mainly applied on cellulosic fibers (also suitable for protein fibers like cotton, silk, and wool)

• Shorter dyeing cycle and ease of application

How to prepare a dye solution?

• Mix the dye with normal water to create a dye paste.

• Add hot water to dissolve the dye properly, ensuring bath concentration.

Dyeing Procedure:

1. Set the dye bath with the substrate at room temperature.

2. Add the dye solution with other auxiliaries and raise the temperature to 90°C.

3. Run the bath for 15-20 minutes, adding salt gradually according to the depth of shade.

4. Run the dye bath for 30-50 minutes at 90-95°C to complete the cycle.

5. Cool the bath temperature to 60-70°C.

6. Drop the bath and rinse.

7. Perform after-treatment with a suitable fixing agent to improve wash fastness.

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Conclusion: Celebrating Ankan's Commitment to Tradition

Ankan transcends the conventional role of a brand; it embodies a profound commitment to safeguarding and exalting the art of hand-block printing. By seamlessly blending tradition with contemporary fashion, Ankan not only strives to carve out a distinct niche for this centuries-old craft but also aims to leave an enduring impact on society. The meticulous attention to detail and the painstaking craftsmanship involved in every aspect of Varanasi hand-block printing underscore Ankan's unwavering dedication. Each carefully chosen material and meticulously carved block serves as a testament to the unparalleled skill and heritage of Varanasi's artisans.

As you delve into the world of Ankan, you are invited to join us in celebrating the beauty and cultural significance of hand-block printing. Through our efforts, we aspire not only to preserve this cherished art form but also to empower the artisans who breathe life into it. Ankan invites you to embrace tradition, elegance, and sustainability in every exquisite piece, forging a deeper connection to the rich tapestry of Varanasi's artistic legacy.