Sourcing Authentic Dharmavaram Silk - A Technical Guide For B2b Buyers

Among them, Dharmavaram stands out for its significant contribution to the global market.Situated about 40 kilometres from Puttaparthi in the Anantapur district of Andhra Pradesh, Dharmavaram is celebrated for its exquisite silk sarees. Established by Kriya Shakthi Vodavaru Swamy in the 12th century AD, the town’s silk weaving tradition is depicted in the ancient paintings on the roof and walls of the Lepakshi Temple and Latha Mandapam.

QUALITY OF DHARMAVARAM SAREES 

Dharmavaram silk sarees are meticulously handwoven from pure silk, renowned for their vibrant colour palettes, unique double shading effects, and intricate zari work inspired by temple motifs. The city’s silk weaving industry has earned acclaim not only in India but around the world. These sarees typically feature broad borders embellished with brocade gold patterns. In weaving terminology, "brocade" refers to intricate zari work with large designs. In addition to silk, Dharmavaram also produces sarees in materials such as cotton, Tussar silk, and cotton-silk blends, extending to a variety of handloom products like cushion covers, bed sheets, curtains, and carpets.

Known as Rajwadi sarees, Dharmavaram silk sarees are available in a range of soft colours and exquisite designs. Their notable features include muted colours and a shimmering or double-colour effect. The crafting of these sarees involves meticulous care and precision, making them treasured possessions for special occasions. The three key attributes of Dharmavaram silk sarees are their superior weaving quality, grandeur, and the broad borders with gold brocade-embroidered pallus.

The Dharmavaram Temple Pallu Saree is distinguished by its rich colour combinations and elegant prints, further adorned with tikkis, stones, and crystal work. It is a preferred choice for grand parties and social events. The Group Buttal Thandu Dharmavaram Saree stands out for its use of varied fabrics, threads, and decorative items, with meticulous handwork and embroidery adding to its appeal. Another trending variant is the Dharmavaram Pattu Silk Sari, featuring designs like peacock feathers and Brahmakamalam, with multi-colored threads creating a changing colour effect, making it suitable for college parties, corporate functions, and weddings. Saree prices range from ₹2,000 to ₹1,00,000, with an average cost around ₹8,000. Designs often incorporate kundans, chamkies, and stones, and use contrasting colours.

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Designs on the pallu and body of saree largely represent flora and fauna as also traditional legends of the country. Leaf, Flower, Fruit, animals and bird designs are largely incorporated in Dharmavaram sarees. More recently the weavers have improvised the weave of the zari to include various contemporary themes as seen in the pictures below. Peacock and Parrot designs are however the most popular and most traditionally used. The semi-arid tropical climate and the quality of water contribute to the color fast nature of the yarn during production.

Handloom

Different combinations of workmanship on the saree are possible

a) One side Kuttu Saree

b) Double side Kuttu Saree

c) One side self Saree

d) Double side self Saree

e) One side semi contrast Saree

f) Double side semi contrast Saree

g) Evening and morning brocade saree

h) Tape border saree

(*Kuttu: A joining between the border and the body of the saree)

MEASUREMENTS 

  Saree: 5.5 metres + 90 cms (blouse) ie., length with blouse; width-46inches to 50 “inches.: Weight-750 gms to 1400 gms.

  Paavada– Width can vary from 20 to 45 inches Length 1.5 mts To 4.0 mts. Weight- from 150 gms. To 600 gms.

 METHOD OF PRODUCTION OF DHARMAVARAM SAREES 

The production of Dharmavaram sarees involves the following steps-

RAW MATERIALS USED

1. Pure silk in raw silk or silk yam form

2. Zari threads in silver and gold, red and green (sourced from Surat)

3. Acid dyes

4. Soap and Soda for degumming yarn

5. Local water

2. PROCUREMENT OF RAW MATERIAL:

Silk is procured in both raw silk and silk yarn. Raw silk  is procured from Bangalore,Siddalagatta, Ram Nagar, Kanakapura in Karnataka State. Silk yarn is procured fromMadanapalli, Hindupur, Kuppam and Dharmavaram of AP state. Of these the silk obtained from Siddalagatta is believed to be of the best quality. It is pertinent to mention here that the higher the quality of the silk raw material, the finer the saree is and the more expensive it becomes. About one fourth of the silk obtained is done through Weavers Cooperative Societies and the remaining 90% individually and through traders.

The silver, gold, red and green zari are procured from Surat in Gujarat which is considered the best in India for the purpose.

DEGUMMING OF SILK

The raw silk sourced as above is sticky and unsuitable for dye treatment. Hence it is subjected to degumming treatment by soaking it in boiling water in which soap and caustic soda are added. This cleans the yarn of its natural stickiness from the source. Theyarn is boiled in hot water with caustic soda and soap for about 3 to 4 hours to ensure that the stickiness on the fibres slowly gives way. The weight of the yarn after degumming gets reduced by almost 25%.

After boiling, the yarn is left to soak in the same liquid overnight. The next morning, theyarn is thoroughly rinsed and the excess water is squeezed out.

 TWISTING OF YARN

Once excess water is wrung or twisted out, the yarn is ready for dyeing as the yam now has the capacity to absorb the dyes. The twisted yarn out of which excess water is wrung out, is then dried and is now ready for absorbing dyes. Twisting of yarn is done both forsaree and pavadas. Warp takes 24 to 28 twists while weft takes 6 to 10 twists. Twisting isdone to give durability and thickness.

DYEING

Dharmavaram saree weavers use direct acid dyes which are available in all rainbow colours. Depending on the requirements upto 500 colour combinations are possible from the basic rainbow colours. For this purpose the weavers use the requisite proportions of required colours to arrive at the desired hues and shades.

Once the colour or shade is decided, the twisted yarn is ready for absorption of dye . Theacid dye is added to hot water at 90 degrees and the twisted yarn is then soaked for about 20 to 25 minutes.Then the dyed yarn is washed in ordinary water to rinse out excess dye. An important

step at this juncture is the soaking of the washed yam in room temperature water into which acetic acid has been added. Notably, this step gives a glow and sheen to the yarn and makes it stiff and durable. Perhaps this contributes to the durability of Dharmavaramsilks which is a characteristic of the GI.

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TREATMENT

Dharmavaram silks are made in an environment friendly manner. After the dying phase,Sodium Hydroxide is added to the remaining dyes which neutralizes the acidity in the

effluent and it is then drained in the nonnal channel. Hence the process is rendered eco-friendly. There is no record of any disease.

DRYING

The dyed yarn is then dried on bamboo sticks for 5 to 6 hours. No specific temperature requirements are relevant. It is dried in room temperatures arranging between 30 degrees

celsius and 40 degrees celsius. It is pertinent to note that the yarn is dried indoors. It is pertinent to note that the dyed yarn is dried indoors away from direct sunlight.

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PRE-LOOM PROCESS:

CHECKING OF CUTTING IN WARP

The weaving process brings together two sets of yarn mounted on the loom. The weft extends to the length of the saree. A warp extends approximately to the length of 10 sarees. The weft contributes to the width of the saree.

 STREET SIZING

Next the warp is mounted on bamboo sticks and is extended to its full length. Then it is sprayed with rice conjee to reinforce the fibres and make it amenable for weaving. This Is done for about 45 minutes, and depending upon the time of the day and weather conditions, the fibres are left to dry.The hank is then transferred through a "charka'o and shift bamboo into a bobbin and is now called the warp. The weft is made by winding the hank yarn into a Pirn which  inserted into a shuttle.

Next, the warp from the bobbin is rolled out into a warp machine which is a big circular contraption, with bamboo sticks. By a rotating process, the yarn is rolled out of several bobbins into the warp machine.

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WEAVING PROCESS

It is noteworthy that only pitlooms are used for original Dharvaram silk weaving. No Power Looms are used. Dharmavaram sarees and Paavadais are hence completely Handloom . A weaver takes 8 to l0 hours a day of weaving in 5 to 8 days to make onesaree.

After street sizing, the warp is ready for weaving. It is mounted on a beam, and the weftwhich is in the Pirn is placed inside a shuttle and placed perpendicular to the warp beam.

For every pull of the lever, the weft moves across the warp once thus adding to a weave.This was the traditional method of weaving the warp and weft.Jacquard is used for more complicated designs while doby is used for the simpler designs. In the jacquard cards with punched holes are inserted and placed appropriately to effect the required designs on the cloth.Only Pitlooms are used in Dharmavaram silk weaving. Dharmavaram silk weaving is conspicuous by the absence of power loom. The pit loom enhances the stability of the weaver during the weaving process. The material is completely hand woven and is conspicuous by absence of any form of printing.Graph paper is used for incorporating the designs. The motifs are first incorporated on the graph paper and later superimposed on the material on which the weave is carried out.

One saree takes approximately 5 to 8 days by one person for about 8 to 10 hours a day.

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CUTTING & FOLDING

Folding is done manually in the size of 12" X 8". Packing is then done in attractive paper boxes.

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INSPECTION AND QUALITY CONTROL OF DHARMAVARAM SAREES 

APCO and the Central Silk Board are the government agencies that undertake the responsibility to inspect the quality of silk and the sarees. The manner of inspection is through procurement by trained procurement officers and technical assistants of the

APCO in case of the sarees. 

The Central silk Board conducts the following exercise:

(a). Raw silk testing is carried out for all the characteristics of raw silk adopting

the International Silk Association (ISA) and the Central Silk Technological

Research Institute (CSTRD Bangalore, procedures.

(b). In case of Silk sarees, the following tests are conducted based on need:

(i). ends per inch (EPI) and Picks per inch (PPI)

(ii) Silk warp denier and weft denier

(iii) Type of woven design

(iv) Fabric strength

(v) purity of zari

(vi) Fastness Test for colour:

(a). Wash fastness test

(b). perspiration test

(c). Light fastness test.

CERTIFICATION BY CENTRAL SILK BOARD

An office of the Central Board Silk Board is located in Dharmavaram which certifies the

quality of the silk used for the weaving. The strength of the yarn, power testing andDinear testing take place here. The testing is done to enture that the warp has 24 to 26 twists per inch while the weft is 6 to 10 per inch.

APCO further certifies sarees sourced from the Cooperative Weavers society as being

pure handloom. The other weavers use their expertise and experience in gauging the

quality maintenance of the finished product.

Duration- A saree takes 8 to 10 hours of weaving per day, in 5 to 8 days by one person.

Dharamvaram sarees

CUSTOMIZATION OF DHARMAVARAM SAREES 

Dharmavaram sarees are renowned for their luxurious silk and intricate weaving. Customization in these sarees can involve several aspects:

1. Design and Pattern: Customers can choose from various traditional motifs, such as paisleys, florals, and geometric patterns. Custom designs might include unique borders or pallu (the end piece of the saree), reflecting personal or regional preferences.

2. Colour Choices: While traditional Dharmavaram sarees often feature rich and vibrant colours, customization allows for the selection of specific shades and combinations to match individual tastes or occasions.

3. Silk Quality: There are different grades and types of silk used in weaving. Custom orders might involve selecting specific kinds of silk to achieve the desired texture and sheen.

4. Weaving Techniques: Traditional Dharmavaram sarees employ techniques like zari (gold or silver thread work). Customization might include choosing the type of zari or the intricacy of its placement.

5. Size and Fit: While sarees are generally one-size-fits-all, some customization might involve adjusting the length of the saree or pallu to better suit the wearer’s preferences.

6. Embellishments: Additional elements like hand embroidery, beadwork, or stonework can be incorporated based on personal preferences.

The customization process often involves close collaboration between the customer and the weaver or designer to ensure that every detail aligns with the desired outcome, making each saree unique and personal.

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UNIQUENESS OF DHARMAVARAM SAREES 

The uniqueness of Dharmavaram sarees lies in its durability, its regal look, grandeur and

suitability for grand occasions. It lasts upto 50 years due to usage of weft of two play,three play and four play. The colour is fast and is guaranteed. The saree has a rich lustre and its resplendence and grandeur makes Dharmavaram saree stand out. These Characteristics can be attributed to the region of Dharmavaram which prides itself as being home to dexterous and experienced handloom weavers. The Dharmavaram silk is

essentially handloom woven and not poor loom. The use of gold, silver, green and red zari adds to the magnificence of the saree making it very appropriate for use in grand occasions. Dharmavaram saree is made in all colours, and is conspicuous by the presence of intricate zari weave. The body has no thread work and the borders and pallu have intricate zari woven in exquisite designs.

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PRODUCTION OF DHARMAVARAM SAREES 

The efficient handloom strategies makes them one the high quality product in the market.The designs can be customised so the weavers pay special attention to the customer's demand and thus builds trust between the buyer and seller.

The production process of these sarees involves several key steps:

• Weaving Preparation: High-quality silk threads are sourced, often from the local area or other regions known for silk production.

• Dyeing: The silk threads are dyed using natural or synthetic dyes, depending on the desired colour and pattern. This step requires precision to achieve the vibrant and consistent hues characteristic of Dharmavaram sarees.

• Design and Pattern Creation: Artisans create intricate designs, which often feature traditional motifs such as peacocks, flowers, and geometric patterns. This involves detailed hand-drawing or designing patterns that will be woven into the fabric.

• Weaving: Skilled weavers use traditional handlooms to weave the sarees. The weaving process can be complex, especially for sarees with elaborate designs and border work. The use of jacquard looms allows for the incorporation of intricate patterns.

• Finishing: After weaving, the sarees undergo a finishing process that includes washing, ironing, and sometimes additional embellishments like zari work (gold or silver thread work). This step ensures the sarees are smooth and ready for wear.

• Quality Check: The finished sarees are inspected for quality, ensuring that the craftsmanship meets the high standards expected of Dharmavaram sarees.

Production 

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF SILK INDUSTRY 

The environmental impact of silk weaving industries is quite concerning as it requires a lot of energy and it a lot of water.The dependence on the mulberry,which is a thirsty tree can stress freshwater supplies if the trees are planted in water scarce places.The need for sustainable silk is important to for saving our environment it includes organic farming,natural dyes and humane silk extraction methods like peace silk.Peace silk is cruelty free,aligning with the values of consumers who prioritise animal welfare.It is a sustainable fabric as it reduces the ecological impact associated with traditional sericulture.

Peace silk is a high quality fabric as it maintains the luxurious qualities of traditional silk,offering sustainable fabric options without compromising quality.

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SCALABILITY OF DHARAMVARAM SAREES 

Scalability in the context of Dharmavaram sarees refers to the ability to expand production and meet increasing demand while maintaining quality and traditional craftsmanship. Here are some aspects related to scalability for Dharmavaram sarees:

• Production Capacity: Increasing the number of sarees produced requires scaling up weaving operations, which may involve hiring more artisans, investing in additional looms, or adopting more efficient processes.

• Quality Control: As production scales, maintaining the high standards of silk quality and intricate craftsmanship becomes crucial. Implementing strict quality control measures ensures that every saree meets the desired standards.

• Supply Chain Management: Scaling up requires effective management of raw materials, such as silk threads and zari, to ensure a consistent supply without compromising on quality.

• Design Consistency: Expanding production should not dilute the traditional designs and patterns that Dharmavaram sarees are known for. Balancing innovation with tradition is key.

• Market Reach: Scaling involves reaching new markets, both domestic and international. This may include establishing new distribution channels and marketing strategies to promote the sarees effectively.

• Sustainability: Managing the environmental impact and ensuring the sustainability of practices as production scales up is becoming increasingly important.

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ETHICAL PRACTICES IN PRODUCTION OF DHARMAVARAM SAREES 

Ethical considerations include enduring fair labour practices and animal welfare.

Ethical practices in the production of Dharmavaram sarees involve several key aspects:

• Fair Wages and Labor Conditions: Ensuring that artisans and weavers are paid fair wages and work in safe, healthy conditions is crucial. Ethical production practices emphasize fair labor rights and the well-being of workers.

• Sustainable Sourcing: Using eco-friendly and sustainable raw materials, such as organically produced silk and environmentally responsible dyes, helps reduce the environmental impact of saree production.

• Support for Traditional Artisans: Promoting and supporting traditional weaving techniques and artisans helps preserve cultural heritage and provides economic support to local communities.

• Transparency: Providing clear information about the production process, sourcing of materials, and labor practices enhances transparency and allows consumers to make informed choices.

• Waste Management: Implementing practices to reduce waste during production, such as recycling leftover materials and minimizing excess dye use, contributes to a more sustainable process.

• Fair Trade Practices: Engaging in fair trade practices ensures that all parties involved in the supply chain, from raw material suppliers to end-product sellers, benefit equitably.

DESIGN THINKING IN DHARAMVARAM SAREES 

Design thinking is a problem-solving approach that emphasizes understanding the needs and perspectives of users to create innovative solutions. In the context of Dharmavaram silk sarees, design thinking could involve:

• Empathising: Understanding the needs and preferences of customers who buy or wear Dharmavaram silk sarees. This might involve exploring cultural significance, design preferences, and usage patterns.

• Defining the Problem: Identifying challenges or opportunities in the current market. For instance, this could be addressing issues like declining interest in traditional designs among younger generations or the need for more sustainable production practices.

• Ideating: Generating creative ideas to address the identified problems. This might include designing new patterns, exploring innovative weaving techniques, or developing marketing strategies to reach a broader audience.

• Prototyping: Creating samples or models of new saree designs or marketing approaches. This helps in visualising how ideas can be implemented and tested.

• Testing: Gathering feedback from customers or stakeholders on prototypes to refine and improve the design. This ensures that the final product meets the needs and expectations of the target audience.

MARKET TRENDS OF DHARMAVARAM SAREES 

There are 1.5 lakh looms which produce about 72,00,000 sarees on an average at Rs.2500 per saree at a total cost of Rs. 11800 crores. Exports to the tune of Rs. 180 crores are undertaken to US, UK, Malaysia, Singapore, Myanmar and Dubai. About 40%of total production is locally consumed. About 50% is circulated nationwide and 10% for international export. 

ECONOMIC IMPACT OF PRODUCTION OF DHARMAVARAM SAREES 

About 10% of the total production of Dharmavaram consists of pavadas. 16.67,000 Pavadas at an average price of Rs.12001- per piece at total cost of

Rs.200.00 crores are exported.For more people to know about Dharmavaram Sarees, digital marketing is also used,there are various websites selling the Dharmavaram sarees online.

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SOCIAL IMPACT OF PRODUCTION OF DHARAMVARAM SAREES 

There are more than 2 lakh weavers involved in the making of Dharmavaram silk sarees.

The average wage per weaver is about Rs.5000 for 10 sarees warp. However the amount differs according to variation in the nature of raw material/process of weaving.

WEAVERS BENEFIT

The Government has come forward with several Weaver's benefit schemes. Some of them are as follows- 

(1) Schemes for weavers within Coop- fold

1.Benefit of cash credit

2.Reimbursement of rebate claims under Marketing incentive scheme

3. Modernisation/replacement of looms

(II) Schemes for weavers outside and within Coop. fold:

1. Pavali Vaddi Scheme

2. Mahatma Gandhi Bunkar Bima Yojana (MGBBY)-Life insurance

3. 3. ICICI Lombard Health insurance scheme for weavers

4. Workshed-cum-housing scheme for weavers

5. Artisan credit card scheme

6. Finance to handloom weavers groups.

7. Integrated handloom Development Scheme (IHDS)

PAYMENT TERMS

Payment terms for Dharamvaram sarees can vary depending on the seller, buyer, and specific transaction. Generally, these terms might include:

• Advance Payment: A partial or full payment made before the sarees are produced or shipped. This is common for custom orders or high-value transactions.

• Cash on Delivery (COD): Payment is made upon receipt of the sarees. This term is often used in retail or direct sales to customers.

• Credit Terms: Buyers may have a set period (e.g., 30, 60, or 90 days) to pay after receiving the sarees. This is common in wholesale transactions or with established business relationships.

• Bank Transfer: Payment is made via electronic transfer directly from the buyer’s bank account to the seller’s.

• Cheque: Payment can also be made through a cheque, though this method is less common and may involve additional processing time.

• Online Payment: Transactions can be completed through various online payment gateways or platforms, offering convenience and immediate confirmation.

The specific payment terms are usually negotiated between the buyer and seller and should be clearly defined in the purchase agreement.

TURN AROUND TIME OF DHARMAVARAM SAREES 

The turnaround time for Dharmavaram silk sarees can vary based on several factors, including:

• Customization: If the saree is customised with specific designs, colors, or embellishments, the production time can be longer, typically ranging from a few weeks to several months.

• Stock Availability: For ready-made sarees, the turnaround time is generally shorter, often a few days to a couple of weeks, depending on the store’s inventory and order processing.

• Order Volume: Larger orders or bulk purchases may require more time to process, as they may involve scaling up production or coordinating with multiple weavers.

• Seasonal Demand: During peak seasons or festivals, turnaround times may be extended due to increased demand.

For precise turnaround times, it’s best to consult directly with the retailer or weaver, as they can provide more accurate estimates based on current conditions and specific order details.

The Turn around time can vary according to

• Standard Orders: Typically, 1 to 3 weeks.

• Custom Orders: Often 3 to 6 weeks, depending on design complexity and fabric availability.

• Bulk Orders: Could take longer, potentially 6 weeks or more, depending on the quantity and specific requirements.

CONTACT DETAILS OF MERCHANTS OF DHARMAVARAM SAREES 

Source:Google  

LOGISTICS CUSTOMS AND DUTIES 

In the context of Dharmavaram sarees, logistics involves the management and coordination of the entire supply chain from production to delivery. Key aspects of logistics for Dharmavaram sarees include:

• Raw Material Sourcing: Efficient logistics ensure timely procurement of silk, zari, and other materials needed for production. This includes managing suppliers and transportation of raw materials to weaving centers.

• Production Management: Coordinating the production process involves scheduling, managing the workload of weavers, and ensuring the timely completion of sarees.

• Quality Control: Implementing logistics for quality checks throughout the production process to ensure that the sarees meet the desired standards before they are shipped.

• Storage: Proper storage facilities are needed to maintain the quality of finished sarees, protecting them from damage, dust, and other environmental factors.

• Distribution: Managing the distribution network to ensure that sarees reach retailers or customers on time. This includes handling packaging, shipping, and dealing with logistics partners for transportation.

• Inventory Management: Efficiently managing inventory levels to balance supply and demand, prevent overstock or stockouts, and streamline order fulfilment.

• Customer Service: Handling returns, exchanges, and customer inquiries as part of the post-sale logistics process.

Effective logistics in Dharmavaram saree production ensures a smooth flow from weaving to delivery, maintaining quality and meeting customer expectations.

Logistics 

RISK MANAGEMENT IN PRODUCTION OF DHARAMVARAM SAREES 

Risk management in the production of Dharmavaram sarees involves identifying, assessing, and mitigating potential risks that could impact the quality, cost, or delivery of the sarees. Key aspects include:

• Supply Chain Disruptions: Risks related to sourcing raw materials, such as silk and zari, include fluctuations in availability and price. Diversifying suppliers and maintaining good relationships can help mitigate these risks.

• Quality Control Issues: Ensuring consistent quality is crucial. Implementing rigorous quality control measures throughout the production process helps prevent defects and maintain high standards.

• Production Delays: Delays can arise from issues like equipment failure or labour shortages. Regular maintenance, workforce planning, and having contingency plans in place can help address these potential delays.

• Market Fluctuations: Changes in market demand and fashion trends can impact sales. Staying informed about market trends and maintaining flexibility in production can help manage this risk.

• Economic Factors: Economic downturns or changes in trade policies can affect costs and demand. Developing a flexible business strategy and financial reserves can help manage these risks.

• Environmental and Ethical Compliance: Risks related to environmental regulations and ethical practices need to be managed by adhering to relevant standards and implementing sustainable practices.

• Logistical Challenges: Issues in transportation, warehousing, or distribution can affect timely delivery. Efficient logistics planning and reliable transportation partners can help mitigate these risks.

Risk management 

DIGITAL MARKETING 

 In order to achieve the remunerative prices for weavers and to create the brand value of Dharmavaram Sarees and Handloom clothes, the Office of the District Handlooms and Textiles Officer, Sri Sathya Sai District has deputed Societies/Participants to sell the Dharmavaram Silk Sarees in Expos.

The District Administration has promoted the Dharmavaram Silk Sarees through social media (WhatsApp, YouTube, Facebook, Instagram, Twitter(X)). The Weavers were registered in WhatsApp, Instagram Apps and promoted their Products.

J.Nagaraju,Designer and Master Weaver from Dharmavaram of Sri Sathya Sai District has owned a huge Silk Saree measuring 180 ft in length and weighing 16 Kgs depicting 400 images of the story of Ramayana in the form of pictures. The words Jai Sriram in 13 languages were inscribed 32,000 times on the Saree. The Saree is an ample testimony to the skill of Weavers and Designers of Dharmavaram. Cotton, Silk,Linen, Banana yarn and Silicon were used for the Saree and Gold,Silver, Copper and Pink colour Jari added exuberance to the finished product.

Social media 

List of Sellers who are promoted their products through WhatsApp

Instagram:ID:

Link: https://www.instagram.com/silks_dharmavaram_sarees/?hl=en

ID: dharmavaramsaree

Link: https://www.instagram.com/dharmavaramsaree/reels

Facebook:

ID: Dharmavaram Sarees

Link: www.facebook.com/dharmavaram.sarees/”

https://www.facebook.com/dharmavaram.sarees/

ID: Dharmavaram silk sarees 

Link: https://www.facebook.com/sreedurgasilksarees

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BUSINESS AUTHENTICITY IN DHARAMVARAM SAREES 

Business authenticity in Dharmavaram sarees refers to the genuine and transparent practices that uphold the integrity and heritage of the brand. Key aspects include:

• Genuine Craftsmanship: Ensuring that sarees are authentically woven using traditional techniques and high-quality silk, maintaining the original artistry of Dharmavaram weaving.

• Transparency: Clearly communicating the origin of materials, the production process, and the pricing structure. This includes providing accurate information about the sarees' quality and sourcing.

• Ethical Practices: Adhering to ethical business practices, such as fair labour practices, sustainable sourcing of materials, and environmentally friendly production processes.

• Authentic Branding: Representing the sarees' heritage accurately in marketing and branding efforts, without misleading claims or false advertising.

• Certification and Documentation: Providing certification of authenticity, if applicable, and proper documentation for the sarees to verify their quality and origin.

• Customer Relations: Building trust through honest communication, reliable service, and addressing any customer concerns or issues with integrity.

• Cultural Respect: Honouring and preserving the cultural significance of Dharmavaram sarees, ensuring that the designs and practices reflect the traditional values and craftsmanship of the region.

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 QUALITY CONTROL METHODS 

Quality control methods for Dharmavaram sarees ensure that each saree meets high standards of craftsmanship and material integrity. Key quality control methods include:

• Raw Material Inspection: Checking the quality of silk, zari, and dyes before production to ensure they meet required standards. This involves assessing texture, colour consistency, and durability.

• Weaving Checks: Monitoring the weaving process to ensure proper techniques are used and patterns are accurately executed. This may include regular inspections of the loom and technique.

• Design and Pattern Verification: Ensuring that the designs and patterns are correctly implemented as per the specifications. This involves checking the alignment and accuracy of motifs and borders.

• Color Fastness Tests: Verifying that the colours used in the saree do not bleed or fade over time. This includes testing for colorfastness to washing and light exposure.

• Finish and Detailing Inspection: Checking the final product for finishing touches, such as proper hemming, stitching, and embellishments. This ensures that all details are correctly applied and finished.

• Wear and Tear Testing: Assessing the durability of the saree through various stress tests to ensure it withstands regular use and handling.

• Final Product Review: Conducting a thorough inspection of the completed saree for any defects, such as irregularities in weaving, color inconsistencies, or damage.

• Feedback Mechanism: Collecting and analyzing feedback from customers to continuously improve quality and address any recurring issues.

COST MANAGEMENT FOR PRODUCTION OF DHARMAVARAM SAREES 

• Budgeting and Planning: Establishing a comprehensive budget that covers all aspects of production, including raw materials (silk, zari, dyes), labor, overheads, and marketing. Accurate budgeting helps set financial targets and controls.

• Raw Material Costs: Managing the cost of high-quality silk and zari is crucial. This involves negotiating with suppliers for favorable rates, considering bulk purchases for discounts, and ensuring efficient use of materials to reduce waste.

• Production Efficiency: Streamlining the production process to minimize costs and maximise output. This includes optimizing loom use, reducing downtime, and improving workflow efficiency.

• Labour Costs: Managing labor costs by employing skilled artisans efficiently, providing training to enhance productivity, and ensuring fair wages while avoiding overstaffing.

• Quality Control: Implementing stringent quality control measures to reduce defects and rework, which can incur additional costs. High-quality production also helps in achieving better pricing and customer satisfaction.

• Inventory Management: Efficiently managing inventory to prevent excess stock or stockouts. This involves balancing production levels with market demand and using inventory management systems to track stock.

• Cost Tracking: Regularly monitoring and analyzing production costs to identify and address any deviations from the budget. This includes reviewing financial reports and cost breakdowns.

• Technology and Innovation: Investing in modern technology and weaving techniques that improve efficiency and reduce costs over time, despite initial investment costs.

• Waste Reduction: Implementing practices to minimize waste of raw materials and resources during production. This can involve better planning and process improvements.

• Supply Chain Optimization: Managing the supply chain effectively to ensure timely delivery of materials and finished products. Efficient logistics and transportation help in reducing costs and ensuring timely availability of products.

By effectively managing these aspects, producers of Dharmavaram sarees can maintain cost efficiency, uphold the traditional quality of their products, and remain competitive in the market.

Source 

CURRENCY EXCHANGE 

Currency exchange in the context of Dharmavaram sarees refers to the process of converting one currency into another, which can impact various aspects of the saree trade, especially when dealing with international transactions. Here’s how it might be relevant:

• International Sales: If Dharmavaram sarees are sold to customers or retailers outside India, payments are often made in foreign currencies. Currency exchange is required to convert these payments into Indian Rupees (INR), affecting the revenue received.

• Raw Material Costs: When importing raw materials, such as high-quality silk or zari, the cost is typically quoted in foreign currencies. Currency exchange rates impact the cost of these materials, influencing overall production costs.

• Export Costs: Exporting Dharmavaram sarees involves transaction costs in foreign currencies. Exchange rates can affect the profitability of exports, depending on the strength of the Indian Rupee against other currencies.

The price of Dharmavaram sarees in US dollars can vary widely based on factors such as the quality of silk, intricacy of the design, craftsmanship, and the presence of embellishments. As of recent trends:

Basic Dharmavaram sarees: Typically range from $100 to $300.

Mid-range Dharmavaram sarees: Can cost between $300 and $600.

Luxury or heavily embellished sarees: May range from $600 to over $1,000.

CURRENCY CONVERSION 

ANTI MONEY LAUNDERING MEASURES 

Anti-Money Laundering (AML) measures for Dharamvaram sarees, like for any business, involve implementing practices to prevent the use of the business for money laundering activities. These measures include:

• Customer Due Diligence (CDD): Verifying the identity of customers and assessing their risk profile. This might involve checking the background of buyers, especially for high-value transactions.

• Record Keeping: Maintaining detailed records of transactions, including invoices, payment methods, and customer information. This helps in tracking suspicious activities and ensuring transparency.

• Monitoring Transactions: Regularly reviewing transactions for unusual patterns or amounts that could indicate money laundering. For example, unusually large cash transactions or frequent high-value purchases might be flagged.

• Reporting Suspicious Activities: Reporting any suspicious transactions or activities to relevant authorities, such as financial intelligence units, in accordance with local regulations.

• Training and Compliance: Providing training to employees about AML regulations and practices, ensuring they understand how to recognize and report suspicious activities.

• Policies and Procedures: Establishing and implementing AML policies and procedures tailored to the specific needs of the business, including how to handle and report suspicious transactions.

HOW TO FILE A COMPLAINT AGAINST MONEY LAUNDERING 

If you need to file a complaint about anti-money laundering (AML) issues related to Dharmavaram sarees, you can follow these steps:

1. Local Authorities: Contact your local police or financial regulatory authorities. They can guide you on the appropriate actions to take.

2. Financial Intelligence Unit (FIU): In India, the Financial Intelligence Unit (FIU-IND) is responsible for receiving, processing, and analyzing information related to suspicious financial activities. You can file a complaint with them.

3. Consumer Protection Forums: If your issue involves consumer fraud or misleading business practices, you might consider approaching consumer protection forums or ombudsman services.

4. Tax Authorities: The Income Tax Department may also be relevant if you suspect tax evasion or other financial discrepancies.

SHIPPING AND HANDLING 

Shipping and handling for Dharmavaram sarees involves several key steps to ensure that these delicate and often valuable garments reach customers safely and efficiently:

• Packaging: Sarees are typically wrapped carefully to prevent damage. High-quality packaging materials such as tissue paper and protective covers are used to maintain the saree’s condition during transit. For high-value sarees, additional padding and secure boxing are common.

• Shipping Options: Various shipping options may be available, including standard, expedited, and express services. The choice of shipping method affects delivery times and costs.

• Domestic vs. International Shipping: For domestic shipments within India, handling may be simpler and faster. International shipping involves additional considerations, such as customs clearance, international shipping regulations, and longer delivery times.

• Tracking: Shipping services often provide tracking numbers that allow customers to monitor the progress of their shipment in real-time. This feature helps in managing delivery expectations and ensuring the package reaches its destination.

• Handling and Storage: Proper handling during transportation is crucial to prevent damage. Sarees should be stored in climate-controlled environments if there is a risk of humidity or temperature affecting the fabric.

• Insurance: For high-value sarees, insurance might be considered to cover potential losses or damage during transit. This provides an added layer of protection for both the seller and the buyer.

• Customs and Duties: For international orders, customs duties and taxes may apply, depending on the destination country’s regulations. Sellers and buyers should be aware of these additional costs and procedures.

• Returns and Exchanges: Clear policies regarding returns and exchanges should be communicated, particularly for international shipments. Handling returns may involve additional logistics and costs.

EXPORT REGULATIONS FOR DHARAMVARAM SAREES

Export regulations for Dharmavaram sarees, like any other export business, involve a series of steps and compliance requirements to ensure that the sarees are legally and correctly exported from India to international markets. Key aspects include:

• Export Licence: Depending on the country of export, an export license or registration with the Directorate General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) may be required.

• Customs Documentation: Proper documentation is crucial, including the commercial invoice, packing list, bill of lading, certificate of origin, and any other required documents.

• Compliance with Export Quality Standards: Ensuring the sarees meet the quality standards and specifications required by the importing country. This might involve obtaining certifications or adhering to specific regulations related to textile products.

• Tariffs and Duties: Understanding and complying with the tariffs and duties applicable in both India and the destination country. This includes calculating and paying any applicable export duties and taxes.

• Labelling Requirements: Adhering to the labelling requirements of the destination country, which might include information on fabric content, care instructions, and origin of the product.

• Trade Agreements: Being aware of and utilising any trade agreements between India and the destination country that might provide preferential tariffs or other benefits.

• Anti-Money Laundering (AML) Compliance: Ensuring that transactions comply with anti-money laundering regulations to prevent the use of the business for illegal financial activities.

• Logistics and Shipping: Coordinating with logistics providers for the safe and timely shipment of the sarees, including managing any insurance and handling costs.

• Regulatory Compliance: Following all regulations set by Indian authorities and international trade bodies to ensure lawful and smooth export operations.

Complying with these regulations helps in maintaining the legality and efficiency of the export process and fosters trust with international buyers.

Export regulations 

CUSTOMER SERVICE 

Customer service in Dharamvaram sarees involves providing a high level of support and assistance to buyers throughout their purchasing journey and beyond. Key aspects include:

• Pre-Sales Assistance: Offering guidance on product selection, design options, fabric choices, and customization based on customer preferences and needs.

• Product Information: Providing detailed information about the sarees, including fabric quality, care instructions, and design features, to help customers make informed decisions.

• Order Processing: Ensuring accurate and timely processing of orders, including handling special requests and custom orders.

• Delivery and Logistics: Managing the shipping and delivery process efficiently, including tracking orders and ensuring timely delivery.

• Post-Sales Support: Addressing customer queries, handling complaints or issues, and offering after-sales services such as returns, exchanges, or repairs if applicable.

• Personalised Service: Creating a personalised shopping experience, which might include tailored recommendations, loyalty programs, and follow-up communications to enhance customer satisfaction.

• Feedback Collection: Gathering and acting on customer feedback to continually improve service quality and address any areas of concern.

• Cultural Sensitivity: Understanding and respecting cultural nuances and preferences, particularly for customers from diverse backgrounds or international markets.

INNOVATION IN DHARAMVARAM SAREES 

Innovations in Dharmavaram sarees focus on combining traditional craftsmanship with modern trends and technologies to enhance the product’s appeal and functionality. Key innovations include:

• Design Modernization: Updating traditional patterns with contemporary designs, including fusion styles that blend traditional motifs with modern aesthetics.

• Fabric Technology: Integrating new fabric treatments and finishes to improve durability, comfort, and ease of maintenance. This may include stain-resistant or eco-friendly treatments.

• Digital Printing: Utilizing digital printing technology to create intricate patterns and designs more efficiently and with greater precision.

• Sustainable Practices: Adopting eco-friendly practices in sourcing materials, dyeing processes, and production methods to appeal to environmentally conscious consumers.

• Customization: Offering bespoke sarees with personalized designs and fabric choices, allowing customers to tailor the saree to their preferences.

• Smart Textiles: Exploring smart textile technologies that incorporate sensors or other interactive elements into the fabric, though this is more experimental in traditional contexts.

• Enhanced Weaving Techniques: Innovating weaving methods to create lighter, more breathable sarees while maintaining the luxurious texture and sheen of traditional silk.

       The artistry and craftsmanship of Dharmavaram sarees not only embody the rich cultural tapestry of the region but also showcase a timeless elegance that has captivated admirers across the globe.The process of creating these iconic sarees is a testament to the dedication of countless artisans who pour their expertise and passion into every thread. From the careful selection of raw materials to the precise weaving on pit looms, every step is executed with the utmost care to preserve the essence of Dharmavaram’s rich heritage. The result is a product that not only meets the highest standards of quality but also carries with it the pride and tradition of its makers.

As Dharmavaram continues to thrive, its silk sarees stand as a symbol of India’s rich cultural heritage and the enduring legacy of its artisans. By embracing both tradition and innovation, Dharmavaram maintains its esteemed place in the world of textiles, offering a blend of beauty and craftsmanship that is truly unparalleled.

In celebrating Dharmavaram’s silk sarees, we honour a tradition that has enriched lives for generations and continue to inspire awe and admiration. Whether worn on grand occasions or treasured as heirlooms, these sarees remain a cherished testament to the timeless allure of Indian artistry.

CITATION

Paper 

Prof. Dr. Bibhudutta Baral

Antony William

Sweta Roy Chowdhury

Shruti K

Aruna Kumari. Y

NID, Bengaluru